Saint Laurent Winter 2025 Collection: The Season of the Big Shoulder
Saint Laurent’s Winter 2025 collection marked a definitive return to one of fashion’s most iconic and dramatic silhouettes—the powerful shoulder. If there’s one element that unites the entire collection, it’s the exaggerated shoulders, a feature that dominated the runway and captured the essence of ’80s power dressing. With Anthony Vaccarello at the creative helm, this show wasn’t just about clothes—it was a statement. It was a statement about strength, confidence, and sophistication.
The collection made its debut at Paris Fashion Week, and as models strode around a large oval onyx floor, they wore oversized outerwear, structured dresses, and leather jackets with sharp, bold shoulders that instantly captured attention. Saint Laurent had returned to the idea of the powerful silhouette, but with a twist. Gone were the heavy embellishments and padding that once made the ’80s shoulder so intimidating. Instead, precise fabrics and construction made the voluminous shoulders feel modern, sculptural, and entirely wearable.
Let’s dive deep into the intricacies of the Saint Laurent Winter 2025 collection, exploring the architecture of the silhouette, the color palettes, the inspiration behind the designs, and what it means for the future of fashion.
The Big Shoulder: A Return to Power Dressing
There’s no denying that the ’80s power suit with its exaggerated shoulder pads had an undeniable impact on fashion. It was a period defined by boldness, assertion, and a kind of untouchable glamour. Designers like Yves Saint Laurent were at the forefront of this revolution, pushing the boundaries of what it meant to dress for both strength and allure. In the Winter 2025 collection, Vaccarello reimagines that silhouette, incorporating the same strength but in a modern context.
The shoulder became the star of the collection. It wasn’t just a detail or a minor feature. From oversized coats to dresses with large, sharp shoulders, everything about this collection was meant to convey power. Models in huge shoulders strutted around the runway, creating a sense of presence with each step. The shoulder silhouette, often coupled with clean, architectural lines, gave each piece an inherent confidence that was both empowering and elegant.
Fabric, Cut, and Precision: The Heart of the Collection
When Anthony Vaccarello was designing the Winter 2025 collection, he was determined to make the shoulder the defining feature, but he didn’t rely on excessive padding or ornamentation to achieve the effect. The collection was all about fabrics and precise construction. Vaccarello’s design ethos has always been about the purity of form, and this collection was no different. In his words:
“Instead of speaking through ornament or padding, fabrics and precise construction shape the garments. Pure forms and volumes are derived from construction and cut.”
Vaccarello’s statement resonates throughout the collection. He used fabrics that naturally held structure, making each piece feel architectural and sculptural. It was clear that he wasn’t just designing clothes—he was designing wearable art. The materials used to create these voluminous shapes were carefully selected for their ability to support such daring silhouettes without feeling cumbersome or stiff. These were garments with movement, despite their imposing volume.
For example, supple leather was used in jackets that featured wide, exaggerated shoulders, creating a sense of fluidity and contrast between the structure of the garment and the softness of the material. Meanwhile, tweed and wool blends helped create sharp yet flexible shapes, ensuring that the garments kept their shape while still allowing for ease of movement. These precise materials added to the overall strength of the pieces, giving each design an effortless quality.
Vibrant Colors and Bold Hues
If there’s one thing that immediately grabbed attention at the Saint Laurent Winter 2025 collection, it was the use of super-saturated colors. Vaccarello chose bold hues that gave each piece a sense of vibrancy and life. There was nothing subtle about the colors used in this collection—they were meant to be seen.
Saint Laurent revisited its iconic color palette, taking classic shades and amping them up to their fullest potential. We saw vibrant tangerine jackets paired with plum belts, rich deep fuchsia coats that demanded attention, and grass-green minidresses with hulking shoulders. The colors weren’t just eye-catching; they helped accentuate the strong silhouettes that were at the heart of the collection.
Vaccarello didn’t stop at just a color statement—he also used contrasting hues to create visual interest and balance in the designs. For instance, the emerald green dress with the bejeweled collar stood out with its sharp shoulder lines, making the combination of color and cut even more striking. The tangerine jacket with a plum belt was one of the standout pieces, playing with vibrant tones that were unexpected yet cohesive.
Embodying the Saint Laurent Woman: Confidence, Power, and Glamour
Saint Laurent is known for defining a particular type of woman—one who is confident, powerful, and never afraid to take risks with her fashion. In Winter 2025, this philosophy was more evident than ever. The collection was all about the power of the silhouette, and by embracing the bold, structured shoulder, Vaccarello reinforced this idea of a woman who commands attention.
The models that graced the runway embodied the Saint Laurent woman. Their strong, elongated frames were only amplified by the sharp shoulders and voluminous silhouettes. Whether they were wearing oversized coats or skin-tight dresses, the models walked the runway with an air of confidence and authority. These weren’t clothes made for shrinking in the background—they were made to stand front and center, just like the women who wear them.
The 80s Revival: A Nostalgic, Yet Modern Approach
One of the most exciting aspects of the Saint Laurent Winter 2025 collection is how Vaccarello took inspiration from the ’80s and modernized it. The 80s power suit—with its padded shoulders and sharp tailoring—has remained a symbol of power and femininity. But in this collection, Vaccarello didn’t just throw back to the era; he made it his own by reinterpreting the shoulder pad in a way that felt fresh and contemporary.
The combination of vibrant colors, strong shoulders, and minimalist detailing offered a stark contrast to the often over-the-top, heavily embellished styles of the 1980s. It was a nod to the era’s power-dressing trends, but reduced to its purest form. Vaccarello’s designs didn’t rely on the heavy ornamentation of the past. Instead, they allowed the shoulder silhouette to be the hero of each outfit, creating a modern twist on a timeless aesthetic.
Conclusion: The Big Shoulder Is Back—and Stronger Than Ever
The Saint Laurent Winter 2025 collection is a testament to the strength of fashion’s evolution and the return of one of its most iconic shapes: the big shoulder. By pushing the boundaries of construction and cut, Anthony Vaccarello has revitalized a classic silhouette, giving it a contemporary edge that’s both daring and wearable. The collection’s powerful use of structure, coupled with bold colors and precise tailoring, defines a new chapter for the fashion house—one where confidence, strength, and femininity are front and center.
As we continue to embrace the big shoulder trend, it’s clear that Saint Laurent is leading the charge. Vaccarello’s Winter 2025 collection proved that when done right, the shoulder silhouette isn’t just a passing trend—it’s a statement. Whether on the runway or on the streets, the big shoulder is back, and it’s here to stay.