Chanel Ties Paris Fashion Week Up With a Bow: A Celebration of Heritage and Innovation

Introduction

On March 11, 2025, Chanel closed Paris Fashion Week with a spectacular Fall/Winter 2025-2026 ready-to-wear collection, metaphorically and literally tying the event up with a bow. Held at the iconic Grand Palais, the show was a tribute to the house’s enduring motifs—bows, pearls, tweed, and camellias—while embracing a modern, dreamlike aesthetic. With a monumental black ribbon installation as the centerpiece, the collection, crafted by Chanel’s in-house Creation Studio, paid homage to Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s legacy while setting the stage for the anticipated debut of new artistic director Matthieu Blazy in October 2025. This article delves into the highlights of the show, the significance of its themes, and the cultural impact of Chanel’s latest presentation, offering a comprehensive look at why this show was a defining moment in fashion.

The Grand Palais: A Stage for Chanel’s Legacy

Chanel’s return to the Grand Palais, a Beaux-Arts masterpiece of stone, steel, and glass, was a homecoming of sorts. For two decades, this venue has been the privileged setting for Chanel’s shows, embodying the brand’s blend of grandeur and innovation. The Fall/Winter 2025 show transformed the space with a colossal black ribbon sculpture, designed by scenographer Willo Perron, that spiraled toward the ceiling. This audacious set piece, described as “the width of a city street and 368 meters long,” was both a nod to Coco Chanel’s love for ribbons and a statement of the house’s resilience. The ribbon, made of steel rather than silk, symbolized Chanel’s ability to marry toughness with chic elegance, even in a transitional period following the departure of creative director Virginie Viard in 2024.

The set design wasn’t just decorative—it mirrored the collection’s focus on scale, proportion, and the bow as a central motif. As the show notes stated, “Never far from the universe of fairytales, the AW25 ready-to-wear collection conjures up a world of mastery and imagination, all while rendering the house codes sublime.” The Grand Palais, wrapped in this larger-than-life ribbon, became a fitting backdrop for a collection that balanced nostalgia with forward-thinking creativity.

The Collection: Bows, Pearls, and Tweed Reimagined

Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection was a masterclass in revisiting house codes while infusing them with contemporary flair. The in-house Creation Studio, tasked with delivering this “placeholder” collection before Blazy’s arrival, proved its mettle by creating a show that was “refined, exacting, and utterly Chanel.” The collection celebrated the bow—a signature element since Coco Chanel adorned her bobbed hair and boater hats with it—alongside pearls, tweed, and the camellia flower. Here’s a breakdown of the key elements:

Bows: The Star of the Show

Bows were the undisputed protagonists, appearing in myriad forms across the collection. From delicate ribbons to exaggerated, supersized pussy bows, they adorned jackets, blouses, dresses, and accessories. Models sported jaunty bows in their hair, tied under the neck, or fixed to brimmed hats and thick-heeled boots. A standout was a black jumper dress with a cozy silhouette, elevated by a massive bow, and silky slip dresses with ruffled bow details. The collection also featured trompe l’oeil bows and a festive ribbon print that swirled around dresses, tracing the brand’s interlocking Cs. These playful yet sophisticated touches underscored the bow’s historical significance, dating back to the braided trims on Gabrielle Chanel’s early creations.

Pearls: A Nod to Elegance

Pearls, another Chanel staple, were reimagined with bold creativity. Strings of pearls were stacked onto looks, integrated into crossbody bags that resembled oversized necklaces, and even transformed into the heels of ankle boots. A giant pearl handbag became an instant show-stealer, drawing attention across multiple looks. These witty plays on scale highlighted Chanel’s ability to elevate classic elements into statement pieces, blending heritage with modern whimsy.

Tweed: Modernized Classic

Chanel’s iconic bouclé and tweed fabrics were showcased with a contemporary twist. The design team softened traditional tweed suits and shifts with sheer tulle overlays and colorful patterns, creating an airy, dreamlike quality. A military-inspired anthracite tweed jacket was trimmed with matte satin ribbon, while a cherry red tweed ensemble—complete with a jacket, wrap skirt, flared pants, and matching boater hat—played with surrealist layering. These looks demonstrated Chanel’s mastery of craftsmanship, blending structure with transparency to keep the fabric relevant for a new generation.

Camellias and Accessories

The camellia, Coco Chanel’s favorite flower, made its mark in ribbon form around the collar of a sweater dress and as appliqués on outerwear. Accessories were equally impactful, with heeled leather lace-up boots gathering in ruffles and ribbons, evoking a 1920s aesthetic. Sock boots with shiny black patent toes and bow-trimmed lace socks updated Chanel’s classic two-tone pump, tapping into fashion’s current obsession with posh socks. Handbags, a key driver of Chanel’s profits, ranged from miniature postage-stamp-sized versions to oversized laptop sacks, ensuring a style for every look.

Sheer Fabrics and Layering

The collection embraced transparency through sheer silk blouses, tulle overlays, and diaphanous flounced capes that floated over classic Chanel silhouettes. This interplay of light, illusionary fabrics with bold statement pieces created a surrealist effect, softening the edges of tailored looks. Pretty bows secured balloon sleeves on a sheer black organza tunic top, while layered knits and frilled tulle added a featherweight quality. The result was a collection that felt both grounded in Chanel’s heritage and elevated by a fairytale-like imagination.

The Front Row: A Star-Studded Affair

Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2025 show attracted a glittering front row, blending fashion royalty, Hollywood stars, and music sensations. Naomi Campbell, a longtime Chanel icon, wore a lavender minidress with a bow in her hair and praised the collection’s nostalgic 90s influences. She also highlighted her work with Thailand’s National Soft Power Development Committee to promote local fashion talent, emphasizing the importance of supporting models’ well-being.

Other notable attendees included Dakota Fanning, who dazzled in a gilded suit with stars and a rhinestone belt, and Riley Keough, who sported a pleated white pant and cropped silk jacket. Keough, a Chanel ambassador, expressed excitement about her role, noting her preference for androgynous silhouettes. Whitney Peak, in embroidered denim, declared herself a “bow fan,” coveting a pair of the show’s standout shoes. Simone Ashley sparkled in a midriff-baring two-piece, while Tyla, Camila Cabello, Jessica Alba, and Charlotte Casiraghi added to the star power. Music artists Raye and AP Dhillon also joined, proving Chanel’s cross-generational and cross-cultural appeal.

The Context: Chanel in Transition

The Fall/Winter 2025 show came at a pivotal moment for Chanel. Following Virginie Viard’s abrupt departure in 2024, the house has been without a creative lead for nearly a year, relying on its in-house studio to maintain momentum. Despite this “design vacuum,” Chanel’s enduring strength lies in Coco Chanel’s legacy, whose image—complete with suit, pearls, and black ribbon-trimmed boater hat—remains synonymous with the brand. The appointment of Matthieu Blazy, formerly of Bottega Veneta, as artistic director in December 2024 ended months of speculation. Blazy is set to join in April 2025 and will present his first collection in October, tasked with steering Chanel into the 21st century.

This transitional collection was anything but rudderless. As CNA Luxury noted, “By all logic, Chanel should be floundering. A global juggernaut without a captain, the house has been in a state of limbo… Yet against all odds, inside the majestic Grand Palais, Chanel did what it has done for a century: endure. And not just endure—dazzle.” The studio’s ability to deliver a cohesive, impactful show underscored Chanel’s unrivaled staying power and the depth of its archival inspiration, spanning 115 years of fashion iconography.

Cultural and Fashion Significance

Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2025 show was more than a runway presentation—it was a cultural moment that reinforced the house’s position as an industry juggernaut. The collection’s focus on bows, pearls, and tweed was a “final trip down memory lane” before Blazy’s modern eye transforms the brand. By revisiting Coco Chanel’s codes, the show paid homage to the small details—like the bow—that built a fashion empire. As The Zoe Report noted, “A tiny bow can be credited for building a fashion empire—so it deserved its due.”

The show also highlighted Chanel’s ability to captivate across generations and cultures, from Naomi Campbell’s advocacy for diversity to Riley Keough’s nod to her role as a brand ambassador. The presence of global stars like Tyla and Camila Cabello, alongside fashion stalwarts like Campbell, underscored Chanel’s universal appeal. Moreover, the collection’s emphasis on craftsmanship—evident in the intricate ribbon work, pearl embellishments, and tweed tailoring—reaffirmed Chanel’s commitment to artisanal excellence, a value rooted in its Métiers d’art and le19M initiatives.

Social media buzz further amplified the show’s impact. According to posts on X, Chanel’s presentation was among the most-viewed Fall/Winter 2025 shows on Vogue Runway, jumping six spots to number two. The collection’s monochrome palette, softened by pastels, and its standout accessories, like cascading pearls and oversized bows, resonated widely online.

Critical Reception

Critics lauded the collection for its elegance and fidelity to Chanel’s DNA, though some noted the challenges of a leaderless design team. Vogue praised the “light-ish air” of the show, particularly the softening of tweed suits with tulle overlays and the timeless appeal of the black satin bow. However, it also acknowledged that the in-house team lacked the playful, irreverent wit of Karl Lagerfeld, who “got away with multiple variations on all of Chanel’s themes because of his punning wit and lack of reverence for Coco herself.”

ELLE described the show as a celebration of “bows, pearls, tweed, and other house motifs,” highlighting the witty plays on scale, like the giant pearl heels and crossbody bags. The Guardian called it “gift-wrapped in black ribbon,” emphasizing the collection’s toughness and chicness. WWD noted the team’s dutiful focus on the bow theme, from the invitation’s boxed satin bow to the spiraling set, but suggested that Blazy’s arrival will bring a transformative energy to the house. Overall, the consensus was that Chanel delivered a sterling collection that honored its past while teasing its future.

Looking Ahead: Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel

The Fall/Winter 2025 show served as a bridge between Chanel’s storied past and its next chapter under Matthieu Blazy. Known for his modern, architectural approach at Bottega Veneta, Blazy is expected to reimagine Chanel’s codes with a fresh perspective. His debut in October 2025 will be closely watched, as he faces the challenge of making the tweed suit a “hot fashion item again” while preserving the house’s bold, understated elegance. As Vogue aptly quoted Coco Chanel, “Fashion passes; style remains,” and Blazy’s task will be to ensure that Chanel’s style endures in a rapidly evolving industry.

Conclusion

Chanel’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 show at Paris Fashion Week was a triumphant celebration of the house’s heritage, tying together its iconic motifs—bows, pearls, tweed, and camellias—with a modern, fairytale-like vision. The monumental black ribbon set, the star-studded front row, and the meticulously crafted collection proved that Chanel remains a cultural and fashion powerhouse, even in transition. As the house prepares for Matthieu Blazy’s arrival, this show stood as a testament to its resilience, creativity, and timeless allure. In the words of Harper’s Bazaar, “It was all about ribbons and bows in the final ready-to-wear collection before Matthieu Blazy arrives,” and Chanel ensured that Paris Fashion Week ended on a high note, wrapped in a bow.